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Luxor, has often been called the worlds greatest
open air museum, as indeed it is and much more. The number and preservation of the
monuments in the Luxor
area are unparalleled anywhere else in the world that know of. Actually, what most
people think of as Luxor
is really three different areas, consisting of the City of
Luxor on the East side of the Nile, the town of
Karnak just north of
Luxor and Thebes, which the ancient Egyptians called Waset, which
is on the west side of the Nile across from
Luxor.
Right - The west bank across the Nile from
Luxor.
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To say that the Luxor
area is a major attraction for tourists in Egypt would be an understatement. It
has been a tourist destination since the beginning of tourism. Even in ancient times,
during the late Dynasties of the Greek and Roman periods, the area drew tourists,
and has been doing so ever since. Today
Luxor is well equipped to accommodate tourists with many hotels and in general
a tourist industry ready and willing to serve the people from many countries that
descend on this area of the Nile Valley every year. Within
Luxor, there are only three main streets consisting of Sharia al-Mahatta,
Sharia al-Karnak
and the Corniched, next to the Nile.
The street in front of the train station is Sharia al-Mahatta and runs away from
the Nile where it meets the gardens of
Luxor Temple. Sharia al-Karnak,
or Maabad al-Karnak
which means Karnak
Temple Street runs along the Nile from
Luxor Temple to
Karnak Temple. However, Sharia al-Karnak
is known as Sharia al-Markaz where it meets Sharia al-Mahatta street, and to the
south around the temple it is known as Sharia al-Lokanda. Along this street one
will find the colorful signs of restaurants and cafes, as well as bazaars where
the usual variety of Egyptian souvenirs can be found. Of interest is the alabaster,
which is plentiful along the west bank and miled not far from here. Also look for
the clay pots used by the locals for cooking, which are more unusual.
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Luxor at the Nile
Luxor
today is a city of some 150,000 people and is governed by special statues that allow
it more autonomy then other political
areas of Egypt. One thing you might notice
is that various government and other buildings confirm to an 'ancient' building
code. Particularly, the National bank of Egypt (located near the winter palace),
the spa south of the police station, and the railway station are all designed to
appear as pharaonic constructs. All of this occurred after the Egyptianization of
the modern town resulting mostly from the mania that resulted from Howard Carter's
discovery of the Tomb of Tutankhamun. |
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As one might think, the city has all the amenities
tourists might expect, including a variety of hotels, bars, nightclubs and restaurants.In Luxor proper
on the East Bank, one of the first stops must be the
Temple of Luxor
built by Amenophis III. Head south on Sharia al-Karnak
to reach the temple, which was connected to the
Karnak Temple via a long stone processional street called a dromos. The
dromos (Picture at right) was built by Nectanebo I, and originally was lined on
either side by sphinxes.
In front of the Luxor
temple, the dromos is well preserved, and on the way to the entrance one passes
by a Roman chapel of burnt brick dedicated to the god Serapis, which was built during
the rule of Hadrian. There is a path that leads to the Nile side of the Temple where
one enters the complex.
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After leaving Luxor,
head back to Sharia al-Karnak
and go north towards
Karnak. Down the road, near the police station which is near the tomb is
the oldest mosque in Luxor,
the El-Mekashkesh Mosque. It contains the remains of a 10th century Islamic saint
who rumor has it was a monk prior to converting to Islam. The mosque is a popular
pilgrimage destination. Here also is the Franciscan Church and its schools, one
for boys and the other girls. Beyond this lies a great Coptic basilica.
At the Police station, head towards the Nile Corniche. Here, opposite the Mina Palace
Hotel you will find the Mummification Museum, which has most anything you would
ever want to know about mummifications. From here, head north towards
Karnak.
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About halfway to Karnak,
you will discover the
Luxor Museum. (The image at left is a Block Statue of Iamu Negh from the
Luxor Museum).
It should certainly be visited if you plan a well rounded and educated experience.
While this is a small museum, most of the relics are from the surrounding area and
provide considerable insight to the monuments you will visit. From the Museum, head
back to Sharia al-Karnak
and continue north towards
Karnak. After crossing a small bridge one will begin to see the excavated
dromos off the road and running through a small village. |
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A little further on you
will pass the ruins of the Temple of Mut where another dromos leads to the gateway
of the tenth pylon.The road finally arrives at the domed tombs of two saints, Sidi
Ahmed and Sidi Ali, where a road leads past the Department of Antiquities leads
to the main Temple of
Karnak entrance. This road is built along a canal that once connected the
Nile to the Temple. There was a dock in ancient times, but now all that is left
is the quay and the raised dais. Just past that is a red brick Roman dock and past
that two paved ramps led to the river bank. They are bordered by stone parapets,
and were built during the rule of Taharqa. Past these is the Chapel of Achoris,
which received the sacred boat of Amun when it was used in ceremonies.
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To arrive at the entrance one follows the dromos with its crio-sphinxes.
They have the head of a Ram and the body of a lion and are symbolic of the God Amun.
Arriving at the temple, there is a statue of Ramesses II with his son between his
feet.
To the right is a structure that has red steps, a red front colonnade and red brick
walls. Inside there are pedestals. inscribed with the names of Roman emperors, that
once held their statues. This was a Roman chapel dedicated to imperial worship.
After leaving the Temple complex on the left is the Franco-Egyptian Center which
has managed the temple complex since 1967. Down on the shore of the Nile is the
Centre National dl la Recherche Scientifque, or CNRS, which houses the French and
the Chicago House, a project of the University of Chicago is near by. After this,
you will wish to take a boat trip over to the West bank. This trip had a special
meaning to the Egyptians, for they were more crossing the way to the West and life,
then to a necropolis. The
Valley of the Kings is as good as any to try first, with tombs from the
18th and 19th Dynasties. Outside the
Valley of the Kings, the road leads past Antef, named for the 11th Dynasty
prices who were buried here. Some tombs can still be seen as one heads towards the
Temple of Seti I. Most of what is left of Seti's Temple is the view. The court is
entered by the ruined gate of a pylon The court has what is left of a palace on
the south side. The road continues south passing Dra-Abu el-Naga necropolis.
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